More than just suits … bespoke shirts, pants, ties and vests

Bespoke Clothing

Perhaps you are considering investing in some bespoke clothing. Bespoke clothing, named for the verb “bespeak,” meaning to speak for something, or give orders to be made, is just that, custom made threads for the discriminating male, not unlike its feminine counterpart, haute couture. Each piece is individually patterned and crafted to flatter the individual and cater to his particular tastes. The term is often confused with made-to-measure clothing, which instead is made from an established pattern and modified for less common measurements.

More Than Just Suits

When most men think about getting bespoke clothing, their mind immediately jumps to customized suits, without thinking first about individual pieces, but that may be a bit premature. After all, it is best to dip the proverbial toe into the bespoke waters before diving in head first. In addition to full suits, there are also bespoke dress pants, tailored shirts, ties, and vests. And, remember, there are no limits on design options, so you can get a plethora of bespoke shirts at a reasonable price and they will bring some much-needed variety to your old gray and navy suits. You usually get your choice of over 10 different fabric mills, comprising a pseudo-fabric library, so you are sure to get a unique piece every time.

Find A Bespoke Clothier Online

In the United States and Canada, online bespoke wear has become a popular phenomenon among business men and professionals. With multiple online shops offering competitive rates and high-quality workmanship, going online for customized clothing seems like a no-brainer. But, how can you get that personalized treatment that the brick-and-mortar bespoke tailors offer?

It’s simpler than you would think, and it doesn’t involve guesswork, either. Most online bespoke clothiers worth their salt insist on at least one in-person fitting, but you won’t have to chase them down, either. In the spirit of true online convenience, you can schedule a tailor to come to you at your home or office. Just select the design and intricate details of your chosen garment before scheduling the appointment.

Proper Measurements

When requesting bespoke clothing, it is customary to meet directly with the tailor for multiple, in-depth fittings. This, however, can be remedied if your tailor creates a digital pattern that can be conveniently accessed and easily modified as needed. Bespoke clothiers tend to get down to the more intricate details of a man’s shape and posture, including nuances such as the slope of his shoulders and the arch of his back. It is best to record these variations appropriately.

A good tailor also knows how to make allowances for different styles. For example, English suits are typically made with greater allowances for comfort and from heavier fabric than Italian suits, which are made from lighter cloth.

Costs And Investment

Bespoke clothing can be quite pricey, and as such, certain considerations must be made prior to purchasing such items. First, since the clothing entails a large financial investment, it is best to avoid trends or dramatic changes in weight while committing to the purchase.

Second, consider that the prime fabric these items are comprised of usually retails for $50 – $100 per yard and professional tailors charge a premium of $30 – $40 an hour for quality labor. With a standard 65% mark-up, a bespoke suit can fare well over $3000. However, with proper dry cleaning and maintenance, bespoke items are sure to outlast all other items in your closet.





How to select and order a bespoke suit – the eight golden rules

So you have decided to go down the route of buying a bespoke suit? Congratulations, you are clearly one stylish dude.

Now it is time to learn the eight golden rules of purchasing a tailored suit.


Rule 1: (Woollen) Fabric comes first

Make sure you choose a woollen fabric woven by a trusted supplier with a thread count of around 110 or 120. Don’t go for polyester or blended fabrics – they simply don’t perform as well as wool, they aren’t as comfortable and durable and they just don’t look good.


Rule 2: Be aware of what you are paying for.


Given the labour involved in producing a bespoke suit can be as much as 30 hours, if you get it made in the western world the price is going to be $1000 or more minimum. Anything less than that and it is being made offshore in a low-wage economy. There is nothing wrong with this per se, but just make sure if you are paying top dollar it is being made on site as claimed.


Rule 3: Pay attention to style.

Work out your preference – do you like a traditionally cut suit in a heavy fabric (English style) or a lighter, more modern Italian cut or style?

Italian cut suits tend to be more body hugging with allowances between the customers measurements and the suit minimised, where as British style suits aimed at an older market tend to make greater allowances between the customer’s measurements and those of the suit.

Rule 4: Buy when you are at your playing weight

If you are losing weight, on a fitness campaign or changing your body shape, then it is not the time to buy a suit. Once the suit is made you will have very minimal flexibility i terms of changing the dimensions. Perhaps better to use the suit as a reward for once you have reached your fitness goals and a weight and body shape you can safely maintain.


Rule 5: Get you pattern established and keep it

A good tailoring outfit will keep the pattern used to make your suit to make future orders easy. By all means if the shop offers multiple fittings to get sizing right, take up this offer, but if you get the fit right at the first fitting you should be fine.

Rule 6: Avoid short-lived trends

Huge lapels, shiny fabrics, unusual stylings – all these things should be avoided like the plague if you are shopping for a suit to last five or 10 years. This year’s hot style will be too odd to wear out of the house in two years time. Trust us on this – keep it simple and traditional.


Rule 7: Take care of your suits

Get them dry cleaning only when strictly necessary in the case of being stained or too sweaty. The dry cleaning does erode the integrity of the fabric, so its better to simply iron a suit to refresh it.


Rule 8: Keep your expectations reasonable

A good suit is not going to make the average guy look like George Clooney. It WILL add considerably to your visual appeal, confidence and sense of style, but keep your expectations in check.





Template: Excerpt (Generated)

This is the post content. It should be displayed in place of the auto-generated excerpt in single-page views. Archive-index pages should display an auto-generated excerpt of this content. Depending on Theme-defined filters, the length of the auto-generated excerpt will vary from Theme-to-Theme. The default length for auto-generated excerpts is 55 words, so to test the excerpt auto-generation, this post must have more than 55 words.

Be sure to test the formatting of the auto-generated excerpt, to ensure that it doesn’t create any layout problems. Also, ensure that any filters applied to the excerpt, such as <code>excerpt_length</code> and <code>excerpt_more</code>, display properly.

Template: Comments

This post tests comments in the following ways.

  • Threaded comments up to 10 levels deep
  • Paginated comments (set Settings > Discussion > Break comments into pages to 5 top level comments per page)
  • Comment markup / formatting
  • Comment images
  • Comment videos
  • Author comments
  • Gravatars and default fallbacks